The story behind the making of the casual backpack
Hello! This is Kawada from HushTug!
Do you know what process HushTug products go through?
In fact, leather products are made through many different processes. When you actually make them, you realize that a 2mm mistake means the whole thing goes to waste. Once you sew or glue something, you can't redo it.
This time, I would like to give a brief introduction to how the latest HushTug product, the casual backpack, is made.
① Design
A backpack sample that was produced as a test. It has two zipper openings and is made from test leather.
The designs of HuhsTug products incorporate ideas from various places. For this casual backpack, we had been receiving requests to make a backpack for a long time, so we actually created a test design in Mongolia. The image above is the backpack we were actually making. The design is completely different because we used test leather, so I think it doesn't look anything like the backpack we have now (lol). This incorporates the concept of "making the movement of soccer players smarter." It needs to have a luxurious feel, yet still have a certain amount of capacity. Since soccer players sometimes travel in suits, the look needs to be suitable for both work and off-duty. By embodying these elements, the current design was created.
② Creating a temporary pattern
The patterns are made from blank paper. Once the design is complete, the most important step is to make the pattern. The pattern cannot be made incorrectly. Even a 5mm deviation can result in an "unsewable" situation (I've experienced this many times). So, when it comes to making patterns for HushTug, we are two people. We make and check the patterns many times. The things we decide when making patterns are ・Select leather, lining and core material・Dimensions of leather, lining, core material, and zipper - Double-sided tape and adhesive range・Skipping range (the process of thinning the leather)・Sewing line These are them. This particular backpack has a lot of parts: 22 pieces of leather, 14 pieces of core material, and 14 pieces of lining, for a total of 50 pieces. There are 15 tote bags, so that's more than three times as many.At this time, the pattern is created on paper, as it is drawn with a mechanical pencil so that corrections can be made easily. For curved lines, I use what is called an R ruler or a compass. I also use a variety of tools, such as right-angle rulers, 20cm, 30cm, 50cm, and 100cm rulers, to draw. R rulers. Rulers. (The right-angle ruler is a Japanese one.)
③Selection and purchase of leather, materials, etc.
A craftsman checking the leather
Once the pattern is decided, we choose the leather, metal fittings, and other materials that match the image. In the case of this backpack, it was important to decide what metal fittings and core materials to use.To be honest, there are many aspects that we cannot know until we make it, so we prepare various materials (shapes, colors, etc.) before the FIRST sample. Also, in Mongolia, there is no home delivery service like in Japan, so we have to go to the store and buy things while getting stuck in traffic. And, of course, you can't buy products that aren't in stores, so there are many cases where the materials you have in mind are not available... It is very difficult to recreate the product you have in mind exactly as you imagined it in a country like Mongolia.
Also, if we were to make the leather from scratch, it would take three weeks. This three week period is the delivery time for leather to be completed from hides, so if we want to create leather with a high level of design and need to do more testing, it will take even longer.Also, considering that it is a country called Mongolia, there is a high possibility that some kind of problem will occur (or the factory will get tired of it midway), so there is a possibility that they will not make it (lol). The leather used in HushTug products is grained leather, but it took quite a long time to produce this leather consistently.
④First sample production
This is the SECOND sample. Just changing the color of the zipper completely changes the atmosphere.
Once the pattern, leather, and materials are all ready, we start making samples. This first sample is the most difficult. If there are any gaps or leaks in the pattern, you will have to reconsider the size and other factors each time.Also, if I think, "This interfacing would be better for this part," then I have to go buy that interfacing. By the way, the most shocking incident so far was when I got to the point where I just had to sew the last part together, but the joint was too thick to sew (the sewing machine needle wouldn't go through and it broke)...
⑤ Modify the pattern → Create a SECOND sample
The SECOND sample mainly involves incorporating two types of opinions: "corrections from the production side" and "corrections from the non-production side."
From the production side, once the FIRST sample is completed, we can see to some extent how to make it more efficient, how to make it stronger, etc. However, that alone is not enough, so we make sure to check with our employees in Japan via video calls and photos.
In particular, opinions from non-production parties are often abstract (such as "it might look cooler if it was a little crisper"), so we have to think about how to make those opinions concrete and apply them to the production.
This may be the most difficult part. Also, one change may require changing the size of all the patterns, so you still need to be careful.
⑥ Sample completed → Production of actual pattern, cost calculation
This is the actual pattern I created. (The color difference is irrelevant.) This time I have only written about the production of the SECOND sample, but if I am not satisfied with the result, I will revise the pattern and make samples as many times as necessary. Once the sample is complete, we begin making the actual pattern. For this pattern, HushTug uses a slightly thicker and harder material like this one.When making a large quantity, paper tends to get wrinkled easily, so I searched for a durable material and found this. When making this pattern, I pay attention to making it easy to understand so that you can make it to some extent by just looking at the pattern. Also, one thing to keep in mind when making this pattern is to take into consideration the thickness of the pen tip. The tip of a permanent marker pen is about 1mm thick, so if you take both ends into account, there will be a 2mm discrepancy. Therefore, there are a few small things to be careful of, such as cutting "inside the line."
I fill out this sheet and do the calculations. It's a very mundane task (lol). This task will help you determine whether you are good or bad at math. This is also where we perform calculations for "cost disclosure," one of HushTug's features.I calculate the area of the leather and the area of the core material, but it's quicker to look at the patterns side by side, so I do the calculations once the pattern is completed.
⑦ Final sample production (each color)
Once the production of this pattern is complete, we move on to the production of the final sample. This is the finished product that will be sent to our office in Japan for final checking and photography, and will be the sample used in Japan as well. We will create a sample that includes all color variations. The term "sample" is merely a name, and the production process does not allow for even a single mistake.
lastly
This was my first time making a backpack, so it was quite a challenge. It has a more three-dimensional shape than previous bags, so it was difficult to use the core material. I think it has a design that is easy to use and functional while still retaining the HushTug style. This casual backpack is currently being crowdfunded! After the crowdfunding ends, it will be available for sale on the EC site along with the S-size backpack and pouch shown in the photo above, so please check it out!
